Naples’ Chocolate Haven

Gay Odin is a long-established chocolate factory in Naples. I visited the branch in the historic center of Via Benedetto Croce in the Spaccanapoli neighborhood.

Specializing in chocolate, Gay Odin offers a wider variety of chocolate gelatos than most places. I tried the dark chocolate and almond flavors. The gelato was chewy, smooth, and creamy, with a rich depth of flavor. The chocolate gelato did not disappoint!

In addition to gelato, the shop also sells artisanal chocolates and other confectioneries.

 

Gay Odin

Website: https://gay-odin.it/
Telephone: +390815510794
Opening hours:

Saturday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm
Sunday
  • 10 am–8 pm
Monday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm
Tuesday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm
Wednesday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm
Thursday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm
Friday
  • 9:30 am–8 pm

 

Address: Via Benedetto Croce, 61, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy

Pizza Pilgrimage to Pepe in Grani

Like many others, I first learned about Pepe in Grani through the Netflix series Chef’s Table.

Franco Pepe is widely recognized as one of the world’s best pizzaiolos. His restaurant, Pepe in Grani, is located in the quaint historic town of Caiazzo. It is approximately an hour’s drive from Naples or about an hour and a half by train. The restaurant can also arrange a taxi transfer back to Naples upon request.

The restaurant has an inviting atmosphere, with rustic yet charming décor. Pepe in Grani offers three distinct dining areas to suit different preferences and party sizes. The Ordinary Room offers a choice between à la carte and tasting menus. The Hall of Taste is exclusively reserved for guests enjoying the tasting menu, while the Gustarte provides a more spacious and comfortable setting for larger groups of six or more.

Pepe’s pizza dough is handmade and left to rest in traditional wooden boxes. The ingredients are seasonal and locally sourced.

The tasting menus are available for a minimum of two people, and I highly recommend making a reservation in advance to avoid a long wait. You can also indicate any allergies or intolerances when making your booking.

I chose the ESSENZA tasting menu, which included one fried pizza, four slices of assorted pizzas, and one fried dessert. If it’s your first visit, the chef will curate the selection for you. However, if you have specific preferences, you can let the staff know, and they will gladly accommodate your choices.

So, what did I think of the pizza?

I found the pizzas delicious, with unique combinations of flavors that I hadn’t experienced before. The crust, in particular, stood out for its incredibly light and airy texture. Unlike some Neapolitan pizzas, the center wasn’t soggy either. I later learned that only certain ingredients, such as mozzarella, artichokes, and prosciutto cotto, are baked together with the dough, while the remaining ingredients are added after the pizza comes out of the oven.

However, given the high expectations created by the media, I was anticipating a truly mind-blowing experience, which unfortunately didn’t quite happen for me. That said, the pizza was still excellent and unlike anything I had tried before. My advice? Go in with an open mind, leave your expectations at the door, and simply enjoy the culinary journey.

CIRO

Cone with 12-month Grana Padano DOP fondue, rocket pesto, dehydrated Caiazzo black olives.

MARGHERITA SBAGLIATA

Campana DOP Buffalo mozzarella cheese, purée of “Riccio” tomatoes, basil reduction, Evo oil.

SCARPETTA

Campana DOP Buffalo mozzarella, 12-month Grana Padano fondue, uncooked tomato compote, freeze-dried pesto basil, flakes of 24-month Grana Padano DOP cheese

MANGIABUFALO

Fabula buffalo soft cheese, fiordilatte mozzarella cheese, toasted bread with Balsamico Modena IGP vinegar, walnuts, buffalo bresaola, raw frisée, and Evo oil.

SALSICCIA E FRIARIELLI

Fiordilatte cheese, dried Casertano pork sausage, friarielli (broccoli rabe), chili pepper, buffalo ‘stracciata’ cheese, crunchy almonds, garlic EVO oil.

CRISOMMOLA DEL VESUVIO

Slice of fried pizza with lemon peels flavored DOP buffalo ricotta cheese, Vesuvio apricot jam, roasted hazelnuts, Caiazzo dehydrated olives, and fresh mint.

 

Pepe in Grani

Website: https://www.pepeingrani.it/
Telephone: +39 0823 86 27 18
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday 18:30 p.m. – 00:30 a.m., Sundays 12:30p.m. – 15:50 p.m.
Address: Vicolo S. Giovanni Battista, 3, 81013 Caiazzo CE, Italy

Ditta Riva D’Arno, Florence

 

Located next to the Ponte alla Carraia, this café stands out as an early riser, welcoming guests from 8 am onwards. Among its three other branches in Florence, this particular café stands out with its vibrant, bright-colored mural adorning the walls and floor, infusing the space with vibrant energy.

The cafe offers an extensive selection of coffee and homemade pastries, including both sweet and savory options like croissants, cinnamon rolls, cakes, and more.

I ordered a flat white, Margarita focaccia, and ham and cheese croissant. While the ambiance may impress, the coffee leaves something to be desired, bearing a disappointing sour aftertaste. On a brighter note, the margarita focaccia and croissant with ham and cheese fare well, complemented by friendly service.

 

Ditta Riva D’Arno

Website: https://www.menudittaartigianale.com/
Telephone: +39 0553874550
Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. – 19:00 p.m. Daily
Address: Via Lungarno Soderini 7R – Firenze, IT

A Must-Try Schiacciata Sandwich at All’Antico Vinaio, Florence

All’Antico Vinaio is an institution in Florence known for its amazing schiacciata sandwiches. It is one of the city’s premier street foods and is an absolute must-try for anyone exploring the city.

During my visit in the off-peak season, I was fortunate to find a manageable line. To expedite the process, the staff cleverly encouraged customers to scan a QR code for the menu, which helped keep things moving smoothly.

Observing the sandwich being prepared right in front of me was quite satisfying. I opted for the Vegetariana 3 (featuring Gorgonzola, courgettes, sun-dried tomatoes, and rocket leaves) and the La Numero 1 (roast suckling pig, cream of onion, and roast potato cream), which cost € 16 each. I was treated to generous portions brimming with fresh, good-quality ingredients. The succulent roast suckling pig paired beautifully with the sweet onion cream, further elevating the experience.

This sandwich definitely ranks among the most exceptional and unforgettable I’ve ever tasted.

All’Antico Vinaio

Website: https://www.allanticovinaio.com/
Opening hours: Daily 10:00 a.m. – 22:00 p.m.

Main branch
Via dei Neri, 65r, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy

Piazza San Marco branch
Via Ricasoli, 121r, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy