Tomonoura – Thefoodiefetish

Tucked along a quietly preserved street lined with century-old homes, Umihiko Cafe feels like stepping into a different era. Housed in a lovingly restored 120-year-old residence—considered one of the “younger” buildings in a neighborhood where many structures date back over 140 years—the cafe leans fully into its retro charm. Inside, antique furnishings and nostalgic touches create a warm, almost cinematic atmosphere.

It’s essentially a one-man operation—just a single staff member running the entire show. There’s no hovering service here; instead, a small bell sits on each table. Need something? Just give it a gentle ring.

I ordered a yuzu tea paired with a slice of chocolate cake. The yuzu drink was bright and refreshing, with just the right balance of citrus tang—perfect for cleansing the palate. The chocolate cake, on the other hand, leaned indulgent: rich, moist, and deeply satisfying. Served alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it struck that perfect contrast between warm decadence and cool creaminess.

Umihiko Cafe

Tomo-824 Tomocho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima 720-0201, Japan

Yebisuya, the oldest sake brewery in Hiroshima, was founded in 1603 and continued producing sake until 1995. Steeped in history, parts of the building date back to the Edo period, giving the space a quiet, timeless charm. Today, the restaurant doubles as a small museum, with beautifully preserved pottery sake bottles from centuries past on display—subtle reminders of its rich heritage.

I visited Tomonoura during the off-season, and the stillness made it feel like a truly personal experience. With hardly any visitors around, I felt as though I had the entire place to myself. The building is old, yet impeccably clean and well maintained—it truly feels like stepping back in time. It’s run by a lovely couple.

The menu is simple, offering just one lunch set, but every dish felt thoughtful and comforting. The meal was humble yet deeply satisfying, with each element prepared with care. To finish, I had a light and fluffy chocolate cake that wasn’t overly sweet, paired perfectly with a fragrant cup of hot yuzu tea.

At one point, the owner came over to share that the lacquer tray I was using was over 100 years old. His pride was evident, and I was genuinely surprised by how beautifully preserved it was—a small but memorable detail that made the experience even more special.