Juno, the beloved neighborhood bakery

Juno is a popular bakery in the Østerbro district, owned by former Noma pastry chef Emil Glaser and renowned for its cardamom buns.

The efficient and friendly service created a welcoming atmosphere even as the line quickly grew. I arrived around 8 a.m., just after a coffee at Prolog, and was lucky to beat the rush. Since I had already tasted Juno’s famous cardamom bun at Prolog, I decided to explore other offerings and picked up a milk bun and a custard bun for takeaway.

The custard bun was delightful, with a subtle hint of vanilla that complemented its sweet, soft, and chewy texture. On the other hand, the milk bun was a bit of a surprise. While I usually associate milk buns with a mildly sweet profile, Juno’s version had a salty aftertaste. It was dense yet soft and chewy, offering an unexpected twist.

While Juno is undeniably a quality bakery with a great reputation, my experience fell short of the hype. The pastries were good, but they didn’t leave me as impressed as I had hoped. It’s a nice spot, but for me, it’s not quite the standout that it’s made out to be.

sgade 48, 2100 København, Denmark

Ekstedt: Exploring Nordic Flavors Through the Art of Fire Cooking

Ekstedt is a one-Michelin-star restaurant led by Niklas Ekstedt. It specializes in Nordic wood-fire cooking techniques. Situated on Humlegårdsgatan, next to Sturegallerian, the restaurant’s ambiance combines rustic charm with elegant sophistication. It features mood lighting, rustic wooden furniture, and metal accents.

The restaurant offers a set menu exclusively, with the option to include drink pairings. Dietary adaptations for allergies can be accommodated, but advance notice is required prior to your visit. The staff are attentive, professional, and welcoming, with excellent English communication skills.

Dining Experience

The journey begins in the lounge, where guests are offered a drink and a starter (drinks are not included in the set menu unless you choose the drink pairing).

We were then escorted to the kitchen for an immersive dining experience. We met the head chef and the culinary team there, who shared insights into the restaurant’s cooking philosophy. The kitchen exclusively uses charcoal, hay, and organic Swedish birch wood, known for its ability to produce minimal smoke while burning longer. All dishes are prepared over fire, with the exception of a few that are cooked on their sole stove, dating back to 1923.

Starters

In the kitchen, we enjoyed three starters and a palate-cleansing drink:

  1. Mushroom, Charcoal Cream, Raw Leek, and Fried Leek
    Smoky, slightly tangy, with a rich umami flavor—an excellent start.
  2. Swedish Flatbread
    Cooked in cast iron and served with fermented butter, smoked emulsion, pickled onion, and vendace roe—perfectly balanced and satisfying.
  3. Yellow Fish Tail (Oyster Substitute)
    As I don’t eat oysters, they served me a yellow fishtail cooked in tempered fat, paired with roasted stock onion and leek oil. The dish was creamy, fresh, and light.

Palate Cleanser
A choice of juice or wine; I opted for the fermented blueberry juice, which was refreshing and invigorating.

After the starters, we moved to the dining room, where I was seated at the rustic stone bar. This bar also serves as the station where chefs apply the finishing touches to dishes before service. Watching the chefs and service staff work in harmony was a fascinating experience. While waiting for my food, I had a delightful conversation with the floor manager from Kyoto, Japan. He shared that the restaurant employs a multicultural team, with staff members from Spain, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Britain, Sweden, and Switzerland.

Courses

Birch-Fired Green Peas and Broad Beans with Woodruff and Gooseberries
This dish was fresh, summery, and had a vibrant green flavor with a touch of salinity.

Sourdough Bread with Butter and Smoked Whey
The bread was baked in a wood oven using a sourdough starter that dates back to the restaurant’s opening 12 years ago. It was fragrant and rustic, with a nice crust and a soft, chewy texture. The slight tang and deep flavor made it unforgettable.

Main Seafood Courses
While I appreciated the quality and creativity, these dishes were not entirely to my taste, as I prefer my seafood thoroughly cooked.

  • Smoked Turbot with Flowering Quince and Mangalica Pork Fat
    The flavors were rich and smoky, but the texture wasn’t for me.
  • Seaweed-Fired Norwegian Langoustine with Celeriac and Solaris
    First baked and then steamed, served in a langoustine-head broth with pine cone oil. The broth was flavorful, but the langoustine texture felt underdone for my preference.

Juniper-Smoked Reindeer Saddle

The next course featured a juniper-smoked reindeer saddle, perfectly paired with chanterelles and blackcurrants, which added a hint of tart contrast to the rich, smoky flavors. Alongside was a croissant-like pastry designed to soak up the velvety sauce—a thoughtful addition that elevated the dish. The reindeer itself was tender, with a delicate smokiness that complemented the earthy chanterelles.

Smoked Yoghurt, Cucumber, and Rhubarb
A lighter dish followed: smoked yogurt, cucumber, and rhubarb. The combination was both refreshing and sophisticated, with the yogurt’s slight smokiness enhancing the tangy-sweet rhubarb and crisp cucumber. It acted as a palate cleanser, preparing the taste buds for the next indulgence.

Wood-Oven-Fired Cep Mushroom Soufflé
The next course showcased the restaurant’s mastery of fire cooking with a wood-oven-fired cep mushroom soufflé. The soufflé was airy yet rich. It was paired with spruce and blueberries, adding a touch of Nordic forest essence to the dish. The subtle sweetness of the blueberries and the herbal notes of the spruce balanced the dish beautifully.

After the savory courses, guests were invited back to the lounge for drinks and dessert, creating a seamless transition from the dining area.

Mignardises
Dessert was a visual and sensory delight. Mignardises were served on a striking tree-like serving plate, adding an artistic and natural touch to the presentation. These small, bite-sized treats included a variety of textures and flavors—sweet, tangy, and nutty—that offered a perfect conclusion to the meal. Each piece was meticulously crafted, showcasing the restaurant’s attention to detail.

Overall, Ekstedt offers a truly unique and immersive dining experience. While some dishes were not to my personal taste, the dedication to wood-fire techniques, the quality of ingredients, and the storytelling behind the meal made it a memorable evening.

Humlegårdsgatan 17, 114 46 Stockholm, Sweden

Hoel Gård: A Tranquil Escape to Norway’s Historic Lakeside Farm

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Hoel Gård is a large historic farm estate idyllically situated on Nes Island along the shoreline of Mjøsa—Norway’s largest lake.

Hoel Gård is a little over an hour from Oslo Airport and about one hour and 40 minutes from Oslo city center by train to the closest station, Brumunddal, followed by a 15-minute taxi ride. I recommend asking the hotel to assist with booking a taxi.

The farm focuses on using local produce in its kitchen, with many of the ingredients sourced directly from its gardens.

Its bucolic charm, along with the serene surroundings, makes it a perfect getaway.

Dinner was a set course served on the spacious outdoor terrace overlooking Lake Mjøsa, which provided a stunning view of the sunset. The meal was communal, with all guests seated at a single table, creating a warm and interactive dining experience. The waitress thoughtfully introduced each dish, adding a welcoming touch to the evening.

I had trout mousse for the starter, accompanied by pickled carrots and cucumber, fresh dill, and toasted pumpkin seeds. The mousse was creamy and fresh, with the pickled elements adding a nice tang. It was a simple yet refined dish—a great way to begin the meal.

The main course featured sous vide steak served with hollandaise sauce, grilled carrots and onions, and baked baby potatoes. The grilled vegetables were naturally sweet, while the baked potatoes had a satisfying balance of sweetness and starchiness. However, as someone who prefers their meat well done, I felt the steak was undercooked to my liking. I did not enjoy the soft, raw texture, but I could tell it was a high-quality dish that others might appreciate.

The meal concluded with a delightful chocolate brownie paired with sorbet. The brownie was soft, chewy, and rich in chocolaty flavor, while the sorbet provided a sweet and sour contrast that perfectly balanced the dessert’s sweetness. It was a satisfying end to the evening.

Tingnesvegen 581, 2350 Nes På Hedmark, Norway

Barr: A Sister Restaurant of Noma

In an interview I watched, this restaurant came highly recommended by Kenneth Foong, the head chef at Noma. He specifically mentioned the schnitzel, and from the photos I saw, it looked absolutely delectable.

Barr is the third restaurant under the Noma umbrella. It occupies a historic 18th-century waterfront warehouse that was once home to the original Noma. The restaurant features rustic, cozy decor with an open kitchen and a spacious outdoor terrace overlooking the water, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.

As I was dining alone, I was seated at a high table facing the open kitchen. Watching the chefs at work while waiting for my meal was both fascinating and enjoyable.

The restaurant offers a four-course menu or an à la carte option. I chose the à la carte.

For the starter, I was served a lemon pancake topped with brown crab and chives, accompanied by a langoustine sauce and pickled daikon. The pancake was soft with a subtle hint of lemon, the crab meat was fresh, and the pickled daikon added a refreshing tang that balanced the creaminess of the dish. Overall, it was a delicious and well-executed start to the meal.

For the main course, I had the schnitzel served with a side of fennel and dill salad, horseradish cream, and brown butter.

The head chef personally brought out the schnitzel and recommended generously drizzling it with the brown butter. The butter added a rich, nutty depth of flavor that complemented the tender pork perfectly, which was encased in a beautifully golden, crisp crust.

The horseradish cream was delightfully light and airy, melting effortlessly in the mouth.

Unfortunately, the fennel and dill salad was a bit too salty for my taste.

The meal concluded with a dessert of smoked hay vanilla ice cream, accompanied by Swedish blueberries soaked in birch, topped with birch oil, pine, and a sprinkle of salt.

The ice cream had a smooth and delicate texture, with a slight salty aftertaste that added an intriguing contrast. It was absolutely delicious.

Strandgade 93, 1401 København, Denmark

Rustic Elegance and Fine Dining at Sjøbua

Sjøbua is a rustic yet sophisticated restaurant, embodying a charming, classy ambiance with its wooden beams, sturdy pillars, and exposed brick walls. Nestled by the marina, it offers a cozy setting that feels both welcoming and refined.

The staff is warm and attentive, ensuring a memorable dining experience from start to finish. The meal begins with a serving of locally sourced milk bread from a nearby bakery, paired with brown butter dusted with smoked sea salt. The bread itself is soft, pillowy, and brioche-like, with a rich buttery flavor that invites you to tear off each piece and savor it with the flavorful, smoky butter.

I ordered a lobster bisque and grilled Sirloin from Røros (aged for 32 days).

The lobster bisque was served in a luscious blend of cream and butter, garnished with fresh chives that added a subtle hint of freshness. The bisque itself had a delicate, light consistency with a beautifully balanced smokiness that lingered pleasantly on the palate. Accompanying the bisque was a perfectly grilled lobster tail, cooked to tender perfection with a soft yet satisfyingly chewy texture that complemented the richness of the bisque.

The beef is soft, with a deeply satisfying smoky undertone and a touch of salt that enhances its rich flavor profile. It pairs wonderfully with baby potatoes, which are sweet and waxy, carrying just a hint of black pepper for a subtle kick. The seasonal vegetables are simply seasoned, allowing their natural sweetness to shine through and providing a refreshing balance to the heartier elements of the dish.

Brunholmgata 1, 6004 Ålesund, Norway

Elevated Mexican Cuisine at Tinze

Tinze is a fine-dining Mexican restaurant located in the vibrant Olivedal district. It offers an elevated take on traditional Mexican cuisine. Having only experienced Tex-Mex before, I was eager to dive into authentic Mexican flavors.

The decor immediately evoked the Mexican landscape, with earthy tones reminiscent of deserts. The elegant setting was complemented by soft Mexican music, and the walls featured framed fabrics and patterns reflective of the country’s culture. The experience began with a captivating storytelling element, adding a unique, interactive twist to the evening.

The staff was lovely—patient, graceful, and incredibly warm. Although I unfortunately forgot her name, one waitress stood out for her kindness. When she discovered it was my first visit to Gothenburg, she took the initiative to ask her colleagues for recommendations and returned with a list of must-see spots.

The meal kicked off with Mexican canapés. First, baby corn coated in lime and chili emulsion with popcorn from Mexico. The flavors were a delightful mix—sweet, zesty, and with just the right amount of heat. Then came a pig-shaped tortilla stuffed with chorizo—playful and flavorful.

Next was the Tortitas de Papa: trout rillettes with piquín and guajillo mayo topped with trout caviar, served with crisp potato cakes. The food had a delicate crunch and was served in beautiful earthen and wooden dishes.

The vegetarian tostada followed, featuring guacamole and cooked watermelon. The combination was smoky, sweet, savory, and spicy all at once.

The plantain molote was a delightful dish, made from plantain dough stuffed with a sweet banana purée and cheese, then fried to perfection and served on a bed of rich corn sauce. Thanks to the natural starch content of the plantain, no flour was needed—the dough was simply kneaded with a touch of salt. The result was a soft, slightly crispy outer crust with a gentle crunch, while the cheese inside had a smooth, stretchy texture reminiscent of mozzarella. The combination of flavors was both sweet and savory, offering a perfect balance.

One of the highlights of the meal was the homemade mole, a treasured recipe from head chef Wendy’s mother, who came to help when the restaurant first opened. This rich sauce, made from four types of chilies, chocolate, nuts, and seeds, takes over a day to prepare. It was served with caramelized turkey confit and a salad of chayote and “ejotes.” The mole’s flavor was complex—charred, spicy, and umami, difficult to describe but absolutely mesmerizing. The turkey was the softest I’ve ever had, with a lovely crisp skin, and the corn tortillas were outstanding, with a fresh, pure corn flavor. I was shown two ways to eat it: roll it like a cigar or tear and dip it into the mole.

To finish, the crème de la crèmeTres Leches. This classic three-milk cake, soaked in a blend of regular, condensed, and evaporated milk, was served with a side of silky strawberry ice cream. The cake had the perfect balance of richness and sweetness, while the smooth ice cream provided a refreshing contrast. It was an incredibly satisfying end to the meal, capping off a truly memorable dining experience.

Fjärde Långgatan 3, 413 05 Göteborg, Sweden

Victor Von G: Creative Cuisine in a Historic Gothenburg Landmark

Victor Von G is located on the 2nd floor of Feskekörka, an indoor fish market and restaurant. The restaurant is named after Victor von Gegerfelt, the city architect who designed Feskekörka. The name comes from the building’s similarity to a neo-Gothic church.

At Victor Von G, I found myself in an elegant modern setting, seated by the window on a gorgeous sunny afternoon with a view of the water. The food presentation was captivating, combining inventive elements with vibrant colors.

The menu features a chef’s selection set menu alongside a small à la carte offering, which includes starters, main courses, and desserts.

For my meal, I chose the poached lemon sole, accompanied by summer cabbage, cauliflower mousse, roasted hazelnuts, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, and brown butter. The fish was perfectly cooked—fresh, tender, juicy, and delicate in flavor. The combination of the creamy, umami-rich elements with the crunchy, nutty texture created a fascinating balance of flavors.

For dessert, I enjoyed a chocolate mousse featuring licorice herb, blackberry, roasted hazelnuts, and tempered chocolate. The mousse was smooth and sweet with a chocolaty richness, balanced by a tangy, fruity twist.

From start to finish, Victor Von G delivered a lovely dining experience, with beautifully presented dishes, fresh ingredients, and a relaxing setting overlooking the water.

Fisktorget 4, 411 20 Göteborg, Sweden

Prolog Coffee: A Copenhagen Favorite for Specialty Coffee

Opened in 2016 by Sebastian Quistorff and three-time Danish barista champion Jonas Gehl, Prolog has quickly become one of Denmark’s top coffee roasters. Highly recommended by renowned Copenhagen chefs like Rasmus Munk of Alchemist and Kenneth Foong of Noma, Prolog is celebrated for its exceptional coffee. Beyond coffee, the café also offers baked goods from Juno, a beloved bakery just a short walk away.

Prolog has two locations in Copenhagen: one in the vibrant Meatpacking District and another on Randersgade. I visited the Randersgade branch, which is smaller but equally charming compared to the larger Meatpacking location.

The café is bright and cozy, featuring a classic Scandinavian design. The baristas were friendly and welcoming. I ordered a flat white and a cardamom bun—the coffee was strong and robust with a higher acidity, while the bun was soft and flavorful.

Randersgade 45, 2100 København, Denmark

Lillebrors Bageri: A Gem on Rörstrandsgatan

Lillebrors Bageri is located on Rörstrandsgatan, a street that turns car-free during the summer. It’s a popular spot, so it’s best to go early to avoid long lines. I arrived shortly after they opened at 8 a.m., with only a few customers ahead of me. But it wasn’t long before more people started to arrive, and a line quickly formed. Fortunately, service is fast, so the wait goes by quickly.

As a big fan of cardamom buns, I was eager to try Lillebrors after reading so many positive reviews. A simple outdoor seating area with a wooden bench and a tree stump as a table adds to the charm.

I ordered a cinnamon croissant and a cardamom bun. The cinnamon croissant was buttery and chewy with a satisfying crunch, while the cardamom bun was perfect—soft, chewy, sweet, with just the right amount of cardamom, exactly how I like it.

The café only serves brewed coffee with dairy and non-dairy milk options, and it paired well with the pastries, helping to balance out the sweetness.

Although Lillebrors doesn’t offer a wide variety of baked goods, its offerings are top-notch. It has easily become one of my favorite bakeries in Stockholm.

 

Rörstrandsgatan 10, 113 40 Stockholm, Sweden

Hart Bageri: Copenhagen’s Beloved Bakery

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Hart Bageri is a popular bakery in Copenhagen founded by Richard Hart, a former baker at Noma. In addition to its famous sourdough bread, Hart offers a variety of delicious pastries, including cardamom rolls, tarts, and cheesecakes.

The bakery has now expanded to 10 locations across Copenhagen. I visited the branch in Holmen, which is nestled in a charming wooden building overlooking the water. The café has a few tables indoors but many more outside, both at the front and back, providing a scenic spot to enjoy your treats.

I chose one of Hart’s specialties—the cardamom croissant, a favorite among chefs. It was absolutely divine! It was flaky, buttery, chewy, sweet, and sticky, with a texture denser than a typical croissant but still soft. All the goodness was packed into one pastry, and it paired perfectly with my flat white.

It’s easy to see why this bakery is so popular.

Galionsvej 41, 1437 København, Denmark